Naxos certainly doesn't compete with Mykonos and Paros for wild nightlife, but it has a lively and varied scene. As always on the islands, places that are hot one season are often closed the next year. For several years, a disco called Soul has been packed. Ask for directions, as it's a bit tricky to find, but only a 10-minute walk from the main dock. Portara, by its namesake at the far end of the harbor, is an excellent place to enjoy the sunset. Next, you can join the evening volta (stroll) along the paralia. Fragile, through the arch in the entrance to the Old Town, is one of the older bars in town and worth a stop. Lakridi, off the paralia and not easy to find (ask someone to point the way), often has jazz, classical, and other mellow selections. On the paralia, Ocean Dance and Super Island are reliably lively and usually go all night in summer. Ask for directions to the part of town called Pigadakia, in a bit from the paralia, and then follow the sounds of music to two neighboring bar/discos, Jam and On the Rocks. When you leave On the Rocks, I guess the next stop logically would be to head into the Abyss, in the part of town called Grotta.

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