Forget herring. The Dutch doesn’t serve food from the Netherlands. Instead, it references the fare that would have been popular in Olde NYC. And by that I mean the gay [’]90s version, not New Amsterdam. So the pies are a specialty and there are oysters galore, plus juicy steaks, grilled pork chops, baked beans, turnips, and other classic East Coast ingredients. But often these staples are updated, as are the pasta dishes, with Asian or Latin touches, by the talented chef Andrew Carmellini (also of Locanda Verde. Though it’s a large restaurant with several rooms, reservations are a must as it fills up nightly with locals, here to celebrate special occasions . . . or just life. It’s that kind of place.
- Pauline Frommer