Channel centuries of history at this illustrious restaurant, where Napoléon, Danton, Hugo, Colette, and Cocteau all once dined. Thanks to Guy Martin, chef and owner for the past decade, the food is as memorable as the magnificently preserved 18th-century salon: Signature dishes like Prince Rainier III pigeon and truffled oxtail parmentier share the menu with new creations with contemporary flavors like sumac and star anise. The desserts are incredible, especially the palet (a thick biscuit) with milk chocolate and hazelnuts, served with caramel and sea-salt ice cream. Reserve at least 2 weeks in advance, and note that the lunch fixed-price menu is a third of the price of the fixed-price dinner.
- Margie Rynn