You may have to go out of your way to find this local favorite, tucked away on back streets near the northwest corner of the city walls. Once there, it seems like everyone in town is on a first-name basis with the busy staff that dashes between the tables in the three brightly lit rooms. A long menu of local classics includes salsicce con fagioli all'ucelletto, sausage with beans in tomato sauce and sage; tagliatelle alla contadina, with fresh tomatoes, basil and oregano; and a few variations of cavallo (horsemeat, served raw, tartara, and otherwise). Excellent house wines are available by the pitcher.