This is where the Lucchese come when they’re in the mood for fish, and taking a seat in one of four comfortable and elegant little rooms—one with a fireplace, another like a covered garden—elevates a meal to a special occasion. The fish and seafood is brought in daily from Viareggio, the nearby Tuscan port, and appears in a bounty of seafood pastas, grilled seafood platters, a nice choice of antipasti di mare, and a simply prepared catch of the day. Meat lovers can venture over to the “terra” side of the menu for a selection of hearty roasts and grilled Tuscan steaks.