Hatfield was a part of the lives of both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. In the old palace, begun in 1497, Elizabeth romped and played as a child. Though Henry was married to her mother, Anne Boleyn, at the time of Elizabeth's birth, the marriage was later nullified. (Anne lost her head; Elizabeth, her legitimacy.) Henry stashed away his oldest daughter, Mary Tudor, at Hatfield. But when Mary became queen of England and set about earning the dubious distinction of "Bloody Mary," she found Elizabeth to be a problem and kept her for a while in the Tower of London, eventually letting her return to Hatfield. In 1558, Elizabeth learned of her succession to the throne of England while at Hatfield.

Only the banqueting hall of the original Tudor palace remains; the rest of the house is Jacobean. The brick-and-stone structure that exists today has much antique furniture and many tapestries and paintings, as well as three often-reproduced portraits, including the ermine and rainbow portraits of Elizabeth I. The Great Hall is suitably medieval, complete with a minstrel's gallery. One of the rarest exhibits is a pair of silk stockings, which, it is said, were worn by Elizabeth herself, the first woman in England to don such apparel. The park and the gardens are also worth exploring. Luncheons and teas are available from 11am to 5:30pm in the converted coach house.

Elizabethan banquets are staged with much gaiety and music in the banqueting hall of the Old Palace on Fridays. Guests are invited to drink in an anteroom, and then join the long tables for a feast of five courses with continuous entertainment from a group of Elizabethan players, minstrels, and jesters. Wine is included in the cost of the meal, but predinner drinks are not. The menu isn't particularly medieval, and you're granted the (modern-day) luxury of knives and forks. The entertainment is a bit cheesy and the banquets are very touristy, but they are packed every night.

The cost of the banquet is from £49. Warning: Prices fluctuate frequently. For current prices, reservations, and more information, call either the number listed or tel. 01707/262055, or go online to www.hatfield-house.co.uk.